The Best Way to Replace the Fluorescent Starter in A Windhager Bug Zap…
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작성자 UX 작성일25-11-26 13:55 (수정:25-11-26 13:55)관련링크
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Fourmilab is surrounded on three sides by farmland. Within the summer, bugs are in all places. Faced with this example, defence in depth is the one option: window screens, bats, Odonata on the pond, fly strips on the home windows and swatters in each room, and because the final degree of terminal defence, excessive voltage bug zappers with ultraviolet fluorescent lures. These usually are not elegant devices, but they get the job executed. The precept couldn't be simpler-flying insects, whose compound eyes see lengthy-wave ultraviolet mild that mammalian eyes do not, are attracted by the lure tube, which seems to emit a dim blue light to people. To reach the sunshine, they need to fly between wires electrified with between 4 and eight kilovolts which, when the insect completes the circuit, chemical-free bug control kill-a-bug. The only drawback (at least if you aren't a flying insect) is that they do not appear to final very lengthy. After somewhat a couple of summer season, the bulb either starts to flash on and off like a strobe light or just refuses to mild at all.
Replacement bulbs are readily available and easy to install, however in my experience, not less than half the time changing the bulb does not fix the problem. With no mild to draw the insects, a zapper is ineffective, so though its high voltage subsystem continues to work completely, most individuals junk it when changing the bulb would not make it light up. I'm approach too cheap to be proud of such a state of affairs, so I determined to open up a failed bug zapper and see what was happening. The source of the issue proved to be as simple as I anticipated and as straightforward to remedy, so within the hope of saving any individual else the trouble of figuring it out, I've scribbled these notes on the right way to repair your personal bug zappers. These directions pertain to bug zappers made by the Windhager firm of Salzburg, Austria, who have a dominant market share in this obscure trade here in Central Europe.
Obviously, when you have a chemical-free bug control zapper made by one other firm, it'll look completely different inside and should conceivably use a completely different circuit for the fluorescent lamp. Unless you perceive what you are doing and know sufficient electronics to be confident you are not going to do something silly, it is best to leave things well sufficient alone and get a brand new bug zapper. Further, we will be disassembling and modifying a gadget which, when opened up, has uncovered connections to doubtlessly lethal mains current and very unpleasant if not deadly excessive voltage. If you're sufficiently silly or scatterbrained that you are likely to forget to pull the mains plug earlier than sticking your hand inside the guts of a bug zapper, it is best to stop studying instantly and choose some safer challenge, like making microwave popcorn. To start with, before starting this procedure, be sure to try changing the bulb and see if that fixes the issue.
If it does, you have saved lots of time and, if not, you're going to wish a alternative bulb eventually, so why not have one readily available when the time comes? If a brand new bulb would not do the trick, the problem is sort of definitely a failed fluorescent starter inside the box, so we'll need to open it up. You did remember to unplug the zapper earlier than starting to disassemble it, didn't you? First, take away the bug catcher tray at the underside of the zapper, taking care not to spill lifeless bugs all around the flooring or your work area. Depending on the model, the 2 halves of the body of the bug zapper are fastened along with four or six screws. On "industrial" models, these are 2 mm metric machine screws and nuts, but some "consumer" models use infernal "split slot" screws that are supposed to maintain you from opening up the gadget. You see, you are a consumer, so you are expected to devour-buy, buy, buy, not mend issues which break.
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